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Under Construction Worklog Kustom PC Mawds: Project Tarantula

Discussion in 'Setups, Mods and Worklogs' started by de.das.dude, Feb 9, 2014.

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  1. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    moar work!

    as always. click the

    measured around some limits and other things to check how much i need to leave for the wires. 30mm should be plenty since there is loads of place to route around.
    then had to decide if the io sheild and pcie part would go from the inside or the outside. had to be inside since outside would make putting in pcie cards very complicated.

    drew the out and drilled starting holes for cutting with the jigsaw.
    [​IMG]


    rough cut:-
    [​IMG]
    the left bottom hole is for aligning the io and PCIe bracket part of the motherboard to the motherboard tray. this needed to be done since the i/o part would be fixed permanently onto the left face where as the motherboard tray will be removable by velcro/screws.


    checking fits. this face is on the inside of the chassis.
    [​IMG]


    checking fit from the other side
    [​IMG]



    now that it all fits. time to finish/smooth it off with a bit of sanding. this face is the outside face
    [​IMG]


    time to mark out the fan holes for the final time. i got a recent drill bit kit of varying diameters. this is how i used a 4mm one to mark out the holes.
    [​IMG]



    checking it with the rad in the position it will be mounted.
    [​IMG]


    holes were final so time to counter sink them a bit.
    [​IMG]
    this needed to be done since there will be a mesh over the intake fans. also looks cleaner.



    finally:-
    [​IMG]


    one side done 5 more to go!

    time taken for this 1.5hours. total time:- 19.5hours
     
  2. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    what up? time for a big-little update.

    Started working on the HDD cage assembly. if you refer to the design, these are stacks of 3 lian li 3x 5.25" -> 4x 3.5" drive +2 ssd +fan converters.
    First off, disassembled the cages as it would not take the force of working because of the non hardened aluminium used in the essential bits.
    then lay them flat and started riveting them together in lap riveted joints. i used some 1mm aluminium that i hand brushed for the overlapping pieces.

    three done
    [​IMG]
    did this to both sides.



    after finishinf:-
    [​IMG]



    closer view of the delicious brushed aluminium finish.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    the ends will be capped off with square aluminium pieces, salvaged from the lian li side panel(s). Then the easy mount mechanism from the rose will will be split and applied to four corners of this. This will allow the 3 bays to come off the cabinet together.

    time spent : 4hours.
    not been able to exert fully today. food poisoning :s

    total time spent 23.5hours.
     
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  3. s0nicX

    s0nicX Newbie

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    Quick questions, what saw blade model did you use for cutting the acrylic sheet, price and from where did you buy it? I also need it but can't find it here.
     
  4. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    i havent cut acrylic here.
    the previous projects, i used a dremel.

    you can cut acrylic with a regular wood blade with high tpi.
    i got my stuff from
    www.machpowertools.com

    i bought Bosch blades. if you google you can see they have a whole database of blades and what type to use for what.
     
  5. s0nicX

    s0nicX Newbie

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    Wood blade? oh nevermind.
     
  6. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    what do you need? dint you say acrylic?
     
  7. s0nicX

    s0nicX Newbie

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    Jigsaw blade for dedicated-acrylic cutting. I dont want to use any other blade. I found a bosch's model but its not available.
    I asked because I thought this was an acrylic sheet.
    BTW how many storage drives are you trying to use and how many do you actually have lol? From your rendering work i can see lots and lots of drives in the case.
     

    Attached Files:

  8. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    I know its been a long time since the last update (20days :O) but been busy with college, exams, job interviews. never the less.. the job was going on in the bg, just didnt have enough time to update.

    Some changes were made to the plans for the HDD cages. the lian li cages were of bad soft aluminium. so they had no strength to even hold their own weight. Initial plan was to cut out from the lian li side panels and stick them on but the aluminium is very thin soft there, so i cut out a piece from the rosewill. 2mm solid steel. this was gonna add too much weight so this idea was scrapped too. Finally i decided to fashion two braces out of 1mm thick hard good aluminium.

    Because of the busy schedule i forgot to take pics of the brace forming process. In short: 1st i cut 4 pieces to exact size 20mm by 140mm. then straightened out the hard bends etc out of them all, bunched them together and clamped them b/w two pieces of scrap wood from the project. 2nd A bit of the aluminium was handing out, which i used to heat it on a cooking gas burner and let it cool slowly within the wood. This would soften the aluminium and the force from the clamps will make them dead straight. 3rd i checked their sizes a final time and filed down the rough edges. 4th and final i sanded and gave them that brushed finish. the last step put some surface hardness back. This aluminium hardens itself automatically at ambient temp.


    I prepped the hdd cage sides by cleaning them with alcohol. With the help of two clamps and rubber based glue, i glued and clamped one of the braces on to the hdd cage as below. Used my fully functioning hdd to get the correct distance. As usual clicking images will show larger resolution.
    [​IMG]



    After the glue has cured over 8 hours, i take the clamps off, mark drill locations and drill and rivet them. The rivets are offset to a side for allowing the easy mount mechanism which will come later after the aluminium has plenty of time to harden.
    Here you can see one setting next to a completed one i made earlier
    [​IMG]


    close up:
    [​IMG]


    weight test. each clamp weighs 1kg.
    [​IMG]


    After that i went and bought more wood for the top side. Then cut the top side to size, and cut out its acrylic window. The wood from this was enough to make the right side which i will work on now.

    Template for fan holes 120mm.
    [​IMG]


    Marking out the holes on the right face
    [​IMG]

    Marked out the second mobo i/o position and scoured along lines with a cutter to reduce splintering at the edge.
    [​IMG]


    Started drill holes for the jigsaw blades with a hand drill thats around 20years older than me. yes thats right.
    [​IMG]
    HDF wood was too hard to finish drilling large holes with hand.


    Holes finished off with a power drill
    [​IMG]


    Started branch out cuts with a curve cutting blade for the jigsaw. This will help accomodate the larger final finishing bade
    [​IMG]


    This special blade is a finishing blade. Notice the filing marks on the sides as well as the high TPI. I will use this to cut all the holes as well as do the final finishing.
    [​IMG]
    This is one badass blade.


    Fan holes cut out with jigsaw, only the bits at the corners holding the cut outs in place. I will leave them in place for now as they add structural stability when i will cut the long mobo tray hole. WIthout them the vibrations from the jigsaw would damage the wood fibre or even jam up the blade and end in a bloody mess.
    [​IMG]


    All holes cut. Time to pop the rest out gently, and by that i mean with a hammer.
    [​IMG]


    After the cutouts have been removed
    [​IMG]
    the starting points for the cuts need finishing along with some tid bits here and there.


    After finishing off with the jigsaw:-
    [​IMG]
    Might look ok. but this is the inside face which will be covered by fans rads and not visible.... So hows the outer face lets see....
    [​IMG]
    looks decent. Still i did some final hand finishing with a sanding block and a file.

    Drilling out fan holes and final right side after completion.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  9. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    24 + 12ssd/2.5" accomodation. this is not for me. i am working for a client.

    there are no dedicated blades for acrylic as they are the same as wood blades, maybe the metal is inferior. acrylic / plastic wood blades are the same design. buy 8-12tpi blade for wood and it will do fine for acrylic. wood and acrylic behaves in the same way while machining. mech engg here which is why i know so much lol. i use a bosch t101b for 2mm thick brittle acrylic.
    hmm, well, the spec says its plastic compatible as well.
     
    Last edited: Mar 21, 2014
  10. s0nicX

    s0nicX Newbie

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    I see. I'll keep this in mind. Thanks.
     
  11. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    ~click images for higher resolution~
    Long time no see... time for a weekly update.

    first i had to adapt the hdd easymount mechanism onto the drive racks for this one. i decided to use 2 easy mount for each rack, one sliding mechanism at each corner.

    First i had to cut the easy mounts to size
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Then finishing
    [​IMG]







    Now since this build is a dual pc build, i had to make space for another PSU which meant that the larger motherboard needed to be trimmed.
    these are after triming. still has mounting holes for hptx
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]




    then came to attaching these to the hdd racks
    i used double sided tape on the working edge and rubber based glue on the other edge to secure it in place before i drilled and riveted them into place. the rubber adhesive and the double sided foam tape will help absorb vibrations as well.
    [​IMG]




    time to cut the rails from the hdd bay to size:-
    [​IMG]




    rough idea of how the sliders will work. here the channels from the drive bay are placed over the slider on the corners
    [​IMG]



    the rack after riveting has been completed
    [​IMG]
    you can see the foam
    [​IMG]




    after measuring the distance of the sliders on the racks, its time to mount the other half of the mechanism onto the vertical holds that will be a part of the base of the cabinet
    [​IMG]


    at this point i cut my index finger severly by trying to rambo off a sharp burr. bleeding... but the show must go on.




    test fitting and doing the measurements for the hdd rack fans whose holes will be projected onto the front of the front of the cabinet
    [​IMG]
    looks good enough
    [​IMG]




    time to do it the other way
    [​IMG]
    nice
    unfortunately that will be the end for now. cant press triggers with the gash... so i will finish up the calculations for the front fans and hope to complete the construction part by this weekend.

    thanks for reading :)
     
  12. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    long time no see, yet again!
    as usual click images for bigger resolution


    since some of the rails i used were new and unused in the rosewill cabinet it still was tight and the paint was thick, so i had to grind down the paint to make it smoother and easier to slide in and out
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]



    Got a spray paint can! finally got some good stuff, online. Its written as acrylic lacquer; goes on wood, metal and plastic like. No primer required.. and smells like primer in general.
    Time to paint the lian li mobo tray. This is my first go at any sort of painting

    before: dirty, and oily residue.
    [​IMG]

    cleaned and scruffed. wiped with acetone.
    first coat tack coat. this wasnt let to dry. as i wanted the rosewill like texture and thus this is a tack coat
    [​IMG]

    second coat
    [​IMG]

    third coat
    [​IMG]
    it was really hot that day, so it was taking less than 2 mins to completely dry. lol.

    final 4th and then drizzle coat.
    [​IMG]
    success!



    Rear, i had already traced the design onto the wood stock and started, but i had to made some changes because of dual psu.
    Design completed and cutting started
    [​IMG]

    rough cutting complete
    [​IMG]

    Rear complete
    [​IMG]

    so much wood shavings
    [​IMG]



    Now client wanted a matte finish on the wood, with that old vintage speaker look with wood grains visible. Since dyes are not available here, and this is plywood i tried something different.

    First i smoothed the wood with 80grit sandpaper
    then cleaned and sprayed the wood with the same rattle can paint as before
    then finally to give it matte look, used a scoth brite pad to rough it up before it dried completely.
    [​IMG]
    this works :D
     
  13. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    The final face: The front.
    This is very essential and vital as this is where everything lines up, drive bays and what not.

    design drawing complete
    [​IMG]

    test fitting with components
    [​IMG]

    fan holes first drilled by hand with a smaller 2mm bit
    [​IMG]

    then completed with the power drill
    [​IMG]

    drilling all the jigsaw blade holes
    [​IMG]

    starting cuts with curved blade
    [​IMG]

    rough cut complete
    [​IMG]

    Complete
    [​IMG]

    again.. lots of shavings!!
    [​IMG]

    total time till now = 73.5hours!
    thanks for reading :toast:
     
  14. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    Yes i am very much alive! And so is this project!
    Sorry i was away because of my final semester in engineering... Now thats been done with, LETS GO GO GO!


    First let me update till what i have already accomplished during the little gaps i could find b/w studying.


    Painting the Panels Black
    First smoothing out all the rough grains on the plywood with sandpaper
    [​IMG]
    looks good
    Then cleaned it with non oil base stuff.

    Painted and drying
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I have notice that, as i paint more and more, i need less and less paint to cover a a definite area :D experience FTW


    This is when i hit exam time. so packing them up all sealed for storage. Note that i did not matte out some of the panels. That will have to wait unfortunately.
    [​IMG]




    Midway i had some time so i painted the aluminium cages too
    [​IMG]
    they had to be taken apart.
    total cost 1 can only :D

    Fixtures collection :D
    [​IMG]
     
  15. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    Woke up at 8am to start working.

    Hello old friend, we meet again...
    [​IMG]

    looks to be in the order i left it.
    [​IMG]

    Matte finished the rest of the panels.
    [​IMG]
    this is front panel.

    Cutting The Perforated Sheet
    [​IMG]
    this will cover the front and sides... and a mystery piece for later.
    these will be painted red.

    scrap?
    [​IMG]
    I'll see about that...

    thats a lot of cutting of 1mm stainless steel. NOT good for the hands.
    [​IMG]
    wow palm such sore much pain


    Total 86.5hours.

    90hours was my estimate :S
     
  16. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    Hi there.

    Integrating the I/O with the front and side


    I would be using the lian li's I/O on the front.
    marked out
    [​IMG]

    I got some snips recently. so ill be using them to cut the piece i want.
    First straightening out the edge.
    [​IMG]
    that thing is Bloody hard.

    snip snip
    [​IMG]

    cut and straightened with the power of heat
    [​IMG]

    cleaned up and scruffed ready for paint.
    [​IMG]

    Drew out the part to cut off.
    [​IMG]


    looks cool?
    [​IMG]



    onto the side
    This will be done using the rosewill
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    marked a bunch of positions and cut one that suited best.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I have to add these USB 3.0 to the front one (lian li only has 2.0)
    [​IMG]

    making provisions for that(wood bits are the parts where they will screw to)
    [​IMG]

    Done!
    [​IMG]

    Time to paint it !
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Glued the Rosy one to the side.
    [​IMG]
     
  17. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    Bending The Perforated Sheet.

    Material - Stainless Steel
    Mesh - 1.6mm holes

    The reason why i bent it is two fold.
    1. its springy and wouldnt straighten out completely even after i used a rolling pin on a rubbery surface. Hemming would take care of this.
    2. the edges are sharp. REALLY SHARP. cut my finger twice. and i have really thick deadskin.

    Marking and cutting it to size
    [​IMG]

    Dont have an anvil at home, so makeshift anvil from railings.
    [​IMG]


    hammering it down first along the line, then completing the bend. Then Turned it over
    [​IMG]

    Hemming completed. Hemmingway be proud?
    [​IMG]

    3 more sides and done (i didnt use the larger hammer since it was too destructive, also i taped the hammer since i didnt want it to risk falling and hitting the car below)
    [​IMG]

    Assembly
    Here's my dad lending me a helping hand. This kinda skills were passed down to me genetically.
    Each side is secured with angles, as well as screws that are drilled and screws through into them from the rear and bottom. Plank placement was such that no visible screws would be there on the front, sides. The edges were Glued with wood glue. The paint was scraped off first ofcourse.
    [​IMG]

    Turned upside down and secured from the bottom.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Some electrical itty bitty bits
    Time to clean these switches
    [​IMG]

    Texture matched.
    [​IMG]

    Taking them apart to reverse, since the mounting on the front has been rotated.
    [​IMG]
    Didnt work out. its irreversible (clips dont match up)

    So i had to file another guiding notch into the aluminium with a small file. It fits
    [​IMG]

    looking pretty. wiring to go
    [​IMG]

    Wiring loom added.
    [​IMG]

    all done (note: painted the inner flip cover to match the outsides)
    [​IMG]


    Final pics of the day. Sorry for the dust, had a bit of a storm.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    yes i added a little holder to the side wire loom since the wires are soldered directly without hot glue reinforcements. this will prevent the solders from breaking if the wire is tugged.
     
  18. The Sorcerer

    The Sorcerer w00t!! Staff Member Owner/ Reviewer- Hardware BBQ

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    A dad-son project! :D.
     
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  19. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    lol he's out of station mostly. just came for 2-3 days. left again today. helps to have someone else holding the pieces while you screw and glue them:D


    Finishing off the power buttons
    If you had noticed earlier, i haven't wired up the power and reset buttons on the front. The lian li uses an unnecessarily complicated system wherein the mechanical buttons go push down on a separately mounted small momentary buttons on a PCB. Since its separately mounted, I it had to be maneuvered in 3D to get it to the position i wanted. This is the end result.
    [​IMG]
    This will be glued onto the front over the switches. The wood bit itself is expoxied onto the metal bit and set under pressure. The wood will be glued to the wood with normal white wood glue.


    Fitting the motherboard

    Had to machine the tip of the rosewill tray a bit to fit over the angle.
    [​IMG]

    Then attatched the PCIe Card and rear I/O for both the trays. (lian li not pictured here)
    [​IMG]

    Mounting the motherboard.
    First i glued together two wood pieces that came out of the fan slots. Then cut them into 30x30 cubes. They are of 24mm height since the wood itself is 12mm thick.

    The clearance for the motherboards underneath is 27mm. The rest is made up with 3mm nylon washers which double up as vibration absorbers.
    [​IMG]

    Similar tactics used for the power supply supports as well


    Then i used high gloss wood enamel paint in 4 layers painted with a number 6 brush to color the exposed edges.
    Here is an overall view
    [​IMG]

    Close up of rosewill (not yet screws on with washers, just standing on the uprights).
    [​IMG]

    Close up of lian li (not yet screws on with washers, just standing on the uprights).
    [​IMG]

    Closeup of power supply mounts.
    [​IMG]


    View from the outside. The other holes you see are for mounting the motherboard tray rigidly to the pcie bracket part. Its removeable for wire management.
    [​IMG]


    The Front
    Dry fitted the front (without glue) for taking measurements for the HDD bays. i will glue the front after completion as removing the front gives me good ease of access.
    [​IMG]

    Painted the mesh for the front and sides.
    [​IMG]

    total 112hrs of physical labour.
     
  20. de.das.dude

    de.das.dude Newbie

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    The mesh
    It came out nicely after painting.
    [​IMG]

    Putting the top lid on to check fitting and also to take measurements and cut out the acrylic.
    [​IMG]

    Time to assemble the 3.5" bays.
    Positioned the right upright after leaving enough room for tools to go into the gap for tightening up the front face,
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    It is secured at the top as well with the help of a wood spacer. The wood spacer is permanently joined to the right side, a screw will tie the hdd support to this spacer as well as the right side.
    Spacer glued under pressure.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Finishing up the front 5.25" drive bay, by attatching a spacer and nylon washers.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    this would require more tweaking later.

    Note: the spacers were glued. However, the cage is screwed onto the front face with nylon washers as a vibration dampener.
    [​IMG]

    To end for now here is a shot of the Front power button that has now set hard
    [​IMG]


    More posts coming in 30minutes.
     

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