- Introduction, Packaging and Specifications
- Closer Look
- Test Bench and Testing Methodology
- Futuremark Benchmark
- OpenGL Benchmarks
- Middle Earth: Shadow of Mordor
- Rise of the Tomb Raider
- GPU Computation Benchmark
- Folding at Home and LuxMark OpenCL Benchmark
- Overclocking Impressions
- Online Purchase Links
- View All
The GPU cooling shroud is a little bit different from the outside compared to the past reference edition GPUs. Aesthetically, it’s a minor change. Many of you have noticed users changing the colour of the silver portion to match the colour scheme of their system. The diamond cuts and the fake air scoop(I don’t know what else to call it?) makes a decent difference to the design. The outer section of the GPU shroud can be easily dismantled with two Torx screw bits.
It should be noted that this high-end pascal graphic card has the same dimensions compared to its predecessor variants. I would like to see mid-to-ultra high-end cards with lesser length. Not many manufacturers talk about it, but GPU sagging is an issue. It’s even worse when non-native variants are longer and heavier.
There are three DisplayPorts, an HDMI and a dual-link DVI-I video output. The graphic card’s maximum resolution is bumped from 5K to 8K (7680×4320) via DisplayPort 1.42b. You can run 8K resolution 60Hz RGB 8-bit colour only with dual DP, while running it with a single DP 1.3 will run 8K @ 60Hz with YUV420 8-bit.
The actual cooling design inside is pretty much the same lateral-blower type like previous generation models- one fan ‘scooping’ the air and pushing through the alloy heatsink array and out through the rear I/O to cool off the VRM, the video card memory, the core and the power phase. Note that the founder edition GTX 1080 has a maximum temperature threshold of 94 degrees Celsius, a minor 2 degrees Celsius lesser than GTX 980Ti.
Dismantling it from the backplate to remove the cooling shroud entirely was met with an obstacle. Once the two-piece plastic backplate was removed, Nvidia used a hex-type screwdriver to mount the cooling unit whose head in a way acted at its standoff. Those who are planning to buy a reference version to install a waterblock should take note. Those who have more experience may end up using a plier but always look for the right tool for the right job. Unfortunately, I did not have one and cannot confirm the inner PCB layout and to know the type of surface used for GPU core’s heat dissipation. A couple of chips has a thermal pad on them as well.