- Packaging, Bare Essentials and Specifications
- External Impressions
- Internal Impressions Part 1
- Internal Impressions Part 2
- Installation Impressions
- View All
The internals have the same type of paint job as it did on the externals. 5.25″ bays have plastic secure knob on 1 side, plastic PCIE tool-less secure bracket and 4 pairs of 3.5″ hard drive bay rails with 2 of them occupied by a hard drive tray.There are 2 cut-outs on the right hand side (from the left panel view) and 1 towards the bottom for re-routing cables towards. However, its strange not to see a cut out on the top left corner for rerouting 6/8 pin ATX Power cable. Strange that someone who makes case for a living overlooked the basics of a case made with cable management features, atleast in this day of age. Do note that even though the right hand side of 5.25″ bays just need to slide in, there isn’t any pre-drilled screw holes. A lot of people would be comfortable securing certain 5.25″ devices properly, so that could have been provided.
From the front:
The top 2 5.25″ drives has a spring attachment, so that you can press the plastic button to eject the drive through the spring door.
You can remove the entire spring-door frame from the front panel, should you wish NOT to use it.
The holes on the front panel cover is about 1mm in diameter each (like most front panel mesh).
You’ll need to remove the front panel and then take out your trusty screw driver to remove the steel plate to access the front panel fan. Having such front panel and then larger hexagon shaped mesh doesn’t really prevent dust from entering in. Instead of having a hexagon mesh, having a nylon dust filter would have been much helpful.
There is a large enough access hole to re-route cables and wires. Except the top panel, there is nothing on the front where there are any LEDs or buttons. The hole is big enough to re-route Power/Reset/Power On/HDD Activity light- or even USB/Audio jacks.
That being said, do note that its very difficult to have 100% foolproof dust proof PC case, unless your surroundings are near dust free. Dust filters however prevent a lot of dust entering the case directly, so by max you can clean it every once in 2 weeks.
The bundled front fan is 120mm, but there are pre-drilled holes to mount a 140mm fan. Out of all the 4 corners for a screw mount, only 2 of them are pre-drilled: the top-left and lower left corner.
The top plastic control panel is where you’ll have the power/Reset, USB 2.0/3.0 and audio/Speaker front panel connectors.
The panel comes out fairly easily. Once you remove it you find a lot of space to re-route cables. To be honest, the case has lot of access for cables and header wires to be re-routed. By now, one can say that Dongguan Orient uses same chassis so that they can use different top/front panel designs as they see fit.
USB 3.0 jacks are nothing more than a re-routing cable- not headers. You re-route these cables through the case and one of the rubber grommets and connect it back of the I/O port. What’s really bad is that these do not use headers- and having a re-routing cable is no big deal. A lot of newer boards are coming with atleast 2x USB 3.0 connector on the I/O panel and 2x USB 3.0 via the header, usually where cases with USB 3.0 headers are connected. This is one of many buzz-kill in this site. Zebronics should have made an effort to say that this is nothing more than a re-routing cable- or ask the original manufacturers to provide USB 3.0 header cables.
And this is a thumbscrew:
Plastic head with headless 6-32 threads. Even a Rs. 2,500 worth case from somewhat “average” case makers have thumbscrews- then again, such thumbscrews from such cases do end up being corroded eventually.
On the top, as said before there’s a 120mm fan attached positioned to blow the air out. The fan is powered only via molex connectors, which is disappointing that 4 pin fan connectors are not provided. The bottom has vents for the PSU with 120mm fan and for an extra case fan with an option to install an 80mm fan. There are 2 support for the power supply and foam around the psu area from the inside, mostly to prevent vibration. If they really did want to prevent vibration from the power supply, the standoff support could have had rubber on top as well.
However since the bottom fans and the power supply fans usually pull the air in, there are no air filters to prevent dust from being sucked in. You can see 6 support groove on the bottom which suggests you can attach a long air filter material on the bottom and remove it for cleaning and yet its not provided?
Till here its obvious that all the hexagon shaped vents gives a clear way for dust to be collected. This is a very bad design oversight.
The paint-job is pretty good and it feels solid, but 7 pieces of plastic attached next to the PCIE slots gives me a funny feeling and doubt of how their tool-less design works. By now you would have observed this small metal piece around the side section of the case that helps to put in the slide panel in- however it didn’t feel the same. Usually those metal pieces are little bit “springy” but this is just flat out- but it seems they’re installed to prevent the c. There’s no problem sliding the panels in though.
There are plastic secure attachment for the 5.25 inch drives. You don’t require to do anything on the side as it slides in tightly. The PCIE secure attachment is plastic and the only thing that is holding it on the case are 2 sets of screws. The plastic is weak and doesn’t really give me any confidence that these will last for long.
Remember this part?
To install a PCIE-add on, you’ll to snap the pcie slide on the case and then pull off the plastic handle from the rear panel. then you install your card in and push the plastic panel back in.
The fate of your PCIE cards and hard drives are in the hands of flimsy plastic that gives a good impression that they can break very easily. A thumbscrew (not the plastic make-belief type like the one above) would have been much better than this.
Before talking about the tool-less design, there is a small space between the motherboard tray and the 5.25″ bay, where you can slide the headers through the rear of the HDD cage.The space is small and thin, which is good enough to hold the wires together. However, the hole isn’t big enough to slide in the USB 3.0 re-routing cable.
This is how it looks:
This piece of plastic attachment with a hold-down plastic bracket on the case. The plastic mould is too small and too weak- and honestly I would be skeptical in mounting 10″ inch cards with dual slot/Triple slot- Like Asus 6950 CUII.
Yeah sure!!! There is a 7 cut-out on the motherboard tray to support the weight from the other side, but that plastic contraption needs to be stripped and thrown away. You’re much better off grabbing a set of thumbscrews/screw drivers. They didn’t provide thumbscrews, but that where . Another oversight.
You will need to snap off the PCI cover before using it. Here’s a let down. These are nicely painted but once you snap them off you cant put them back unlike the extra ugly pcie bracket provided. Its much better than using that gray coloured PCIE bracket, wouldn’t you agree? This piece metal is good enough to be used. But this non-reusable and hence I throw this and install the inferior make gray bracket incase I don’t need to use the PCIE slot. Why not make these reusable?
…and there’s more to come…
You can slide in 5 hard drives in but the plastic rails are so weak that they can be broken off by the weight of the drive eventually. What’s even more worse is that there are no spare rails provided.
Couple of bays are filled with a hard drive tray that makes a good impression that its made using a sheet of tin.
You’ll need to detach the rail from the tray and slide the hard drive in, then secure the slides back in. I am very concerned if this tray would eventually corrode. It shouldn’t be a surprise for lot of system builders that almost all lower cost case have that issue of eventual rust/corrosion from such type of material.
So Dongguan designed the case in a way that air from the bottom sucks in by the fan on the tray and then blow through the side vents. There’s barely any space to install 60mm x 60mm x 15mm and have any space between the drive. cage. This is redundant. The front fans always does the job to push in air through the hard drive, all you need is a good enough fans for the front. Also, you cannot install the drives with the connectors facing the other way around, so you’ll need to do all the cable work from the front. The space from the SATA connectors to the edge where the right side panel slides in is about 1.2inch.
The tray reminds me of Super Lanboy made by Antec- except they didn’t have those silly vents but it did have rubber standoffs on each tray. But why would you need trays if the rails and the HDD cage is good enough to support it nicely?
The same rail is used to attached to the drive directly so you will be tempted to throw away the trays. There’s barely an mm space between the tray and the drive and the plastic support does tend to break, especially when you attach the rail on the tray:
You can see the damage on the plastic rail very easily. The entire rail too flimsy that even a food-grade disposal plastic used for spoons and forks can do a much job than this.
It doesn’t end there.
Unlike the PCIE slots, the hard drive cage does not have pre-drilled holes to install the Hard drive. Even if it did, the hard drive cage’s opening will need to face towards the power supply so that you can secure the drive from the other side as well.
To make it worse:
After installing only the HDD rail on the drive (without the tray), shavings of plastic does get shaved off easily. This is something that happened after keeping Western Digital 1TB DeskStar drive for about 12 hours. One can be very skeptical if the rail can hold the drive for a very long time.
Moral of the story? Contrary to hocus-pocus crazy myth spread around by some marketing team of a rival back in the days when tool-less design was a premium feature, you are better off using screws and maybe rubber/plastic ring than using useless plastic tool-less contraption.
Sure! The system builder will have to bend over to secure it properly, but using the standard 6-32 UTS screws is far better and more reliable than using such inferior support. Tool-less design- If you can’t afford to do it right, do not do it AT ALL!!!
The plastic tip of the rails go back of the case, probably touches the left side panel. Doesn’t look at if there’s enough space on the rear of the motherboard tray by the looks of it.
I’ve tried to install the drive from the other side unfortunately there’s this groove on the plastic rail that doesn’t let you slide it all the way through. If this was possible, all the SATA power cables and the SATA cable could have been re-routed behind, this way those cables can be hidden as well.